Tertenia

Tertenia is a rural town on the south-east coast of Sardaigne, in Nuoro province, a few kilometres from the Gulf of Quirra. Surrounded by scrubland, vineyards and granite hills, it offers direct access to uncrowded beaches and unspoilt hinterland. It's a discreet starting point for exploring southern Ogliastra without the crowds of neighbouring beach resorts.

What to see

The village retains its traditional fabric: granite alleyways, low houses with interior courtyards, a parish church dedicated to Sant'Andrea. The immediate surroundings conceal vineyards producing Cannonau, the emblematic grape variety of Ogliastra. The nearby coast, between Murtas beach and the coves of the Gulf of Quirra, alternates between pale sand and wind-sculpted rocks.

History and context

Tertenia is part of the long history of Ogliastra, a territory that remained isolated until the 20th century. Traces of nuragic settlement are present in the area, testifying to continuous occupation since the Bronze Age. The municipality long depended on sheep farming and viticulture; local Cannonau now enjoys regional recognition.

Highlights of a visit

Beaches of the Gulf of Quirra

The coast between Tertenia and the Gulf of Quirra offers fine sand beaches accessible by track, often deserted outside July-August. The water is clear and shallow near the shore, suitable for family swimming.

Cannonau vineyards

Several local producers cultivate Cannonau on granite terroirs. A winery visit explains why this full-bodied red wine is associated with the longevity of Ogliastra's inhabitants, a region cited among the world's blue zones.

The nuragic hinterland

The hills around Tertenia harbour nuragic remains scattered in the scrubland. No sites are set up as museums, but walking trails allow you to approach some of them with a local guide.

Photography tips

Golden late afternoon light enhances the granite facades of the town centre. On the coast, early morning avoids harsh light on the water and guarantees empty beaches. The vineyards are photogenic in September, during the harvest.

Location and access

Tertenia is located on the SS125 road (Sardaigne's eastern route), the main coastal axis between Cagliari and Arbatax. A car is essential: public transport serves the town only limitedly. Cagliari-Elmas airport is the most convenient air access; Arbatax-Tortolì is closer but has fewer connections. Tortolì (Arbatax) port offers ferry links to the mainland.

Nearby

• Arbatax — port and red porphyry rocks, about twenty kilometres to the north.
• Ogliastra — region of gorges, cliffs and hilltop villages surrounding Tertenia.
• Jerzu — upland wine village, capital of Cannonau, accessible inland.
• Muravera — seaside resort to the south, known for its citrus and Sarrabus beaches.